Vintage Sewing – Advance 1881 – 1930s Blouse

I just finished making view 1 of this pattern but I also made view 2 earlier this year. I never found the time to post about it so I’ll add some notes on that one too. Also, I do realize this pattern is for children or teenagers but it was too cute and it has worked out rather well for me regardless.

I think I snagged this pattern on Ebay last winter. So adorable. I loved view 2 and made that first. I assumed right away that the 30″ bust would be insanely tiny for me so I added a few inches and discovered that well, I was way off. Ended up going with the 30″ bust pattern as it was, I guess because the style is very open there was enough room. I used a red cotton lawn from my stash and it turned out better than expected. I struggled a bit with the narrow hemming on the ties and sleeves and ultimately used an overcast stitch on them but they don’t look too terrible even if they’re not very true to the period.

With view 1 I did some measuring and it looked as if it might fit again without adjustments so I went for it with some vintage floral silk I have been hoarding for years. The blouse was pretty quick with only a few pleats at the shoulders and gathering on the sleeves. The sleeve cuffs were very tight so I removed them and added an inch or so to the cuff piece and now they fit nicely. The armholes are a bit high and snug but I think they work well for the style, just tighter than I prefer. In the future I will lower them a bit and extend the sleeve cap to fit. The neckline is also too tight to pull together at the center neck but I like the look of it as an open v-neck. Next time I might eliminate the slashing at the center neck and just add a back zip to keep the Peter Pan collar nice and neat in the front. As cute as the pockets are in the pattern image, they easily  got lost with my busy print so I ended up only adding one but with an obvious “handmade” running stitch to help it stand out.

What I really got fed up with was attempting the recommended bias binding technique at the neckline, it was way too bulky and wouldn’t lay right. I ended up going with the tried and true Hug Snug. I can always count on it to help me out with a troublesome seam! I also left off the tie belt as the top was already snug fitting enough and it would only get in the way when wearing it tucked in, which I plan to do.

All in all it turned out rather well for a quick one day project. I guess I’m on a roll with these last two but I know it’s only a matter of time before disaster if I keep mostly winging it. 😉


Vintage Sewing – 1930s Skirt – Advance Pattern 1176

After a year of sitting on this beautiful pattern I finally had the chance to make it this past winter. It is a pretty easy pattern and also very easy to adjust the size as it is a wrap skirt. But just look at that pocket and those buttons! Also, can you imagine buying sewing patterns for 15 cents apiece? I’d buy out entire warehouses. And then require a second apartment in which to hoard all of my super duper affordable sewing patterns. vintage sewing 1930s skirt - advance patterns 1176

Here’s a pic I shared on Instagram almost a year ago of tracing the pattern pieces onto new tissue paper with the help of some special friends, of course. No pins in these pattern pieces! I try to do this with any pre-1960s patterns so as not to damage the pieces any further as they’re already so fragile. This was also my first time working with a pattern entirely void of any printed markings. It was a bit intimidating but this was a great pattern to start out on. - vintage sewing pattern 1930s skirt - advance patterns 1176

Before I even had my fabric figured out I found some vintage art deco metal buttons on Etsy that were begging to be used. They’re so perfect! I don’t think I could have found a better match. Here’s another instagram photo showing the detail on the buttons. vintage sewing 1930s skirt - advance patterns 1176

Since I traced the pattern I’d been agonizing over what color to make this up in when I realized I had a pretty blue cotton twill in my stash that would look perfect as a 1930s sportswear skirt. And it would work with Those Buttons. It wasn’t a long sewing project: a few darts, seams, waistband, pocket, buttonholes, buttons, inner snap, hem. I’m really happy with the result but for some reason this twill loves to wrinkle and stay wrinkled. If anyone has any tips for twill please let me know! I’ve tried ironing, steaming, and wetting and lying flat to dry and still I have creases. But as soon as I sit down it wrinkles again so I suppose it is a fool’s errand no matter what. 🙂

My outfit is officially complete with a pale pink 1940s blouse from Dalena’s Attic on Instagram (Dalena’s Vintage on Etsy). The shade matches the pink of the buttons quite nicely.

It was really quite cold here in New York when I took these photos so I had to stay in the vestibule of my apartment building; my apologies for the super warm tones! My building was built in the 1920s and still has beautiful marble floors in the hall and original tiling. - vintage sewing pattern 1930s skirt - advance patterns 1176 - vintage sewing pattern 1930s skirt - advance patterns 1176 - vintage sewing pattern 1930s skirt - advance patterns 1176 - vintage sewing pattern 1930s skirt - advance patterns 1176

Me Mades: 1960s Sewn Beret & More Knit Hats

Last week I had mentioned that I was working on sewing my first hat and I am proud to say that yes, this happened and no, it wasn’t awful. I used fabric scraps from my stash: vintage pale blue velour, purple satin that was already partially made up into a vest à la Aladdin (not by me), and the only grosgrain ribbon I apparently own in grass green. I used Simplicity 7213 from 1967 for the pattern and found it to be easier than I imagined. I don’t own a tailor’s ham so pressing the rounded seams and darts wasn’t exactly an option but I think it looks alright without that super important part. I also marked everything on the wrong side and when it came time to gather the body of the hat, all the markings were already hidden! Grr. Now I know for next time. I did mention I’m not the best at sewing, right?

The pom pom may be the most depressing part of the whole thing (see my face below for evidence of extreme sadness) because I’ve made them before and this is a pathetic excuse for one. I will not be sharing any closeup shots of that today. Or ever. I think the yarn was wrapped up in the skein funny because one whole side looks sort of wilted though I made it only yesterday.

Overall, I love it! I can’t wait to try another one in more coordinating colors and to take the time to press it properly and mark out my gathers. I’m actually wearing a me-made pumpkin cardigan under my coat but I’ll have to share that another time.

I also made up several different variations of vintage hat patterns that I have already knit and have available on Etsy. I made berets in white, navy, turmeric, and a navy and cream middy cap. I love making these tiny 1930s hats because even though they’re simple berets, they are so versatile in how they can be worn. You can almost make it look like a different hat for every day of the week.

My friend Stacey had requested a navy 1920s-style cloche awhile back and I was finally able to hand it over to her last weekend. I used crochet cotton, doubled and just kind of eyeballed it while working in half double crochet in the round. I wish I had paid more attention to what I did exactly because I would really like to make more of these even if crochet cotton is very slippery and makes the time spent making a hat stretch into sweater territory. But it was worth it!

I think my next knitting endeavor will involve finishing up some vintage knitting projects. I have a 1940s sweater I “finished” several years ago but the collar never looked right after three attempts so it is still sadly hanging unworn in the closet. There’s also a lace 1930s sweater that is sleeveless but finished otherwise. Collars and sleeves are sometimes the most daunting tasks of making a sweater. I know it sounds crazy because they take much less time than the body but they can be finicky and often prevent me from finishing a beautiful piece…for years. I might also try sewing up a 1950s blouse or a 1960s dress if I can convince myself to cut into this beautiful vintage bed sheet. Maybe.


Vintage Halloween: 1920s Party Planning

Over the past few years it seems that everyone has gone 1920s crazy, thanks largely to the film remake of The Great Gatsby and the new silent film, The Artist. The Jazz Age/Roaring Twenties/Gangster Party has replaced the Early 90s Party and flappers are a dime a dozen at any Halloween party. I think that interest in any bygone era is the cat’s meow (and how!) but I’m pretty sure many who have hopped on this fashionable trend think women wore fringe mini dresses, feather boas, and beaded headbands exclusively. They just wiggle into the mass produced costumes from a Spirit Halloween and never go any further. I find that total baloney.

As I mentioned last week, I’ve been looking through several 1920s Halloween books that offer the latest fads in costumes, decor, games, and party tips. It’s simply amazing what one could accomplish with crepe paper, die cuts and paste! Now if I saw someone walking around in an authentic, homemade 1920s costume this Friday, it would be entirely copacetic and I would be crazy jealous. I dream of recreating a vintage 1920s Halloween party including forcing everyone to arrive dolled up in a handmade costume of 90% paper. And not just any paper, crepe paper.

Our modern Halloween holiday began at the turn of the century when costumed dances were held in order to distract youth and thus (hopefully) prevent vandalism. It was at this point that the Dennison Crepe Paper Company hatched the most brilliant marketing plan ever. Beginning in 1909, Dennison began publishing a “Bogie Book” filled with Halloween party costumes, decorations, menus, and party games. All of course could be created using Dennison’s crepe paper, die cuts, and gummed seals. Hand-crafting all of your party favors out of paper was cost effective for the consumer and made Dennison a household name.

Fortunately for us, the 13th Annual Bogie Book from 1925 (Many sites that offer this book list it as being from 1920 but text inside mentions the previous edition as 1924 so this is obviously from 1925.) is readily available on the internet for free in PDF form. I read through this inspiring book this past weekend and wanted to share some of the highlights.

1925 Dennison Crepe Paper Company’s Bogie Book

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes and decorations

“Hallowe’en, the night of October thirty-first, is the one time of all the year when an opportunity is supposed to be given for looking into the future and having one’s fate settled for the coming twelve months.” The book’s pages are filled with wonderful illustrations of homes, halls, clubs, and decorations that have been “…planned so that the busy hostess may achieve the most delightful and unusual results with the least outlay of either time or money.”

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes and decorations

I think the most amazing part is the elaborate instructions that are given to ensure you can properly recreate every “Pumpkin Doughnut Clown”, “Ghostly Prize”, “Pumpkin Boy Nut Dish”, or “Autumn Leaf Cricket”. (A “cricket” is a small metallic noise maker. I absolutely had to look that one up.) You need not fret over how to properly “spiral” your wire (steel knitting needle) or what to hang your crepe paper moss from (natural branches) because it is all explained. Paper waitress outfits are described for church suppers and apples are suggested for hanging alongside streamers but be sure to “have the apples quite high up or your guests will be tempted to eat the decorations.”

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes and decorations

The “Old Man Autumn” imagery (pictured above is the “cricket”) is the greatest loss to modern-day Halloween decorations if you ask me.

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes and decorations

That ghost is pretty terrifying. It looks part alien. Also, I have always longed for a witch pencil party favor.

For party activities, dancing is number one on the list unless of course you’re having a card party. Dances should be interspersed with ghoulish games of devilish divination! One incredibly spooky aspect of the dancing is leaving the choice of partners entirely up to chance and fate. Numerous methods are listed including having guests wear sashes (men) and head scarves (women) adorned with various die cuts and/or colors and matching up for dances, blindfolding guests who walk zombie-style towards the other sex and dance with the first person they grab, and blindfolded “ghosts” matching up partners. Most games include foretelling your fate for the coming year and your matrimonial future. My favorite game is “The Cup of Fate” which involves filling three saucers with milk, water, and vinegar. A (surprise!) blindfolded guest reaches out and whichever liquid they dip their finger into first determines their fate: milk promises a happy marriage, vinegar means your future spouse will have a “sour disposition,” and water means “single blessedness is in store.” I guess back then your only options in life involved a good marriage, a bad marriage, or a happy single life.

The book also includes “stunts” that are staged throughout the night using different party guests with the main event being the telling of a ghost story:

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes and decorations

The story continues on introducing the audience to his “victims” which include the ice man, coal man, radio bug, and Miss Flapper de Jazz. Props are used to illustrate the various murders and the lights go out right on cue. A thrilling evening, indeed!

Costumes begin with a muslin foundation and crepe paper is then attached to this base. (Crepe paper basically dissolves in water so you really will be thankful for this under layer if you get stuck in a downpour or if you fall into the barrel while bobbing for apples.) Again, all costumes are easily created with Dennison products but if you need in-depth costume instructions you only need write to the “Service Bureau” and include the costume number you wish to replicate.

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes and decorations

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes and decorations

The book continues on with some Thanksgiving and autumn party decorations but I will get to those in a few weeks. The end of the book includes the materials you will need to create all of the decorations and the prices are pretty incredible. A sheet of plain crepe paper that was 10 feet long and 10 inches wide set you back 15 cents, while the decorated crepe was 25-30 cents. Crepe paper moss was 30 cents a box and a package of 40 foot streamers was available for $1.50. Even today you can even find authentic vintage Dennison crepe paper on Ebay and Etsy if you’re lucky. Of course it costs a lot more than it did in 1925.

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s bogie book

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s bogie book             chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s bogie book costumes and decorations

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s bogie book costumes

Here are a few other 1920s Halloween costume and decor images from various sources:

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes

eVINTAGEpatterns Dennison Halloween Booklet on Etsy

eVINTAGEpatterns’ Dennison Halloween Booklet on Etsy

chloe hearts owls - vintage halloween - 1920s costumes